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Writer's pictureCassandra Smith

Downstream on the Nulhegan

June 28, 2024

Mile 287.1-298.9 (Walker Campsite) (4.4 miles of portaging)


This morning as I sat in the tent deflating my thermarest I heard crashing coming from behind us in the forest. I stuck my head out of the vestibule and spotted a black bear meandering through! I don't think he even knew we were there he was moving pretty fast and I wish we'd been closer to get a better look at him.

Leaving the dock this morning the river was absolutely beautiful. It wound through tall grass and weeds with so many birds flitting about and flowers on the shorelines and in the brush. We got turned around a few times and I had to keep the GPS up so we knew which channel to take.

After a few miles we rounded a corner and were at our portage. We walked into the town of Island Pond on 105. It was fairly easy but kind of hot. I felt kind of off all day with no appetite which is unusual for me.

We ate some mediocre gas station food at the pavilion in town and resupplied at Dollar General and the grocery store. I have no real idea what I even bought, I just picked out things that sounded good, bought them and shoved them in the food bag without really calculating if it's enough to get me to our next resupply spot. When Henry saw what I bought he raised his eyebrows and asked if I thought I should buy a few more snacks. I figured he was right so I went into DG and bought sour gummy worms, beef jerky, and some skittles. The epitome of health. We paddled across Island Pond, portaged a couple of times and ended up on very scenic Nulhegan Pond.

We were making good time and were only a mile or so from our campsite so I laid back and propped my feet up in the sunshine while Henry paddled around and fished for bass. I really hope we see a moose soon, this seems like the perfect habitat. We paddled (downstream!!) on the Nulhegan through twisty turns and grasses that reminded me of the Suwannee in Florida.

We saw a turtle and Henry found me a turkey feather. Paddled a mile to the campsite and it is gorgeous. Big pine trees, a picnic table, and a beautiful view of the river. Henry built me a fire and I sat by it on my foam pad while he fished, continuing to feed it dead branches he'd collected in a little pile while I smoked a bowl, brushed out and braided my hair and messaged Mom and Gagoo on the Zoleo. I've gotten used to having service everyday and I miss talking to them.

I roasted some hot dogs on the fire for dinner and finished my book If the Creek Don't Rise. Feeling a little foggy headed and sad today and not sure why. I sure am happy to be going downstream though.

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