Serenading the Gnats

June 5, 2024

Mile 38.1-57.7 (1 mile portage)

Last night when we laid down and read the guidebook we planned an easy day of 13 miles with no portaging but that didn’t exactly happen. We chilled at camp most of the morning, taking it slow. We had some visitors to our shoreline- baby ducks and baby geese and I laid in my hammock and watched them for almost a half hour.

We started paddling around 11:30. The sun was hot, I dipped my sun hoodie into the water to soak it multiple times to stay cool. We came upon the town of Long Lake where there was a public beach we could pull up to. There are barely any Guthook comments on this trail so we never really know what to expect when we get to certain stops. We were pleasantly surprised to find a really nice public bathroom with running water and trash cans!! Unloaded all of our trash we’d collected in the last few days and filled up our water bags so we wouldn’t have to filter later. We went for a swim and I laid out in the sand getting sun and eating snacks.

We took off again and paddled the rest of Long Lake and into the Raquette River. It was beautiful and a nice change in scenery. I have to say I much prefer river paddling than lake, there’s just so much to see and usually more wildlife along the banks. The shelter we planned to stay at was only a half mile downriver but when we got there someone was already set up inside. We weren’t really looking for company so we pushed on deciding to do another 4 miles and camp right before the Raquette Falls portage. The flies came out and my head net went on. They still landed on my hands though which was driving me crazy for awhile. Between the glare of the sun on the water and the bug net mesh I could barely see anything and strained my eyes to keep a look out for hidden rocks in the water that might cause us to flip.

We pulled up to the sandy beach at the portage and looked at the map. There was a shelter 0.8 miles into the 1 mile portage. “It would be nice to just get the portage over with today…” we said. Then I looked at the map again and saw that after the portage there was another shelter only 0.7 miles downriver. I suggested we do that because it would suck to do part of the portage today and then have to finish it in the morning. So we adjusted our plans again.

I was hot, hungry, and tired and assessed my body to see what it needed to get me through this portage. First up- cool off. I stripped down and dove in, holding my breath underwater for as long as possible because flies can’t swim. Next- a snack. I shoved mouthfuls of granola under my bug net and into my mouth until my hunger subsided. Then I was ready to fucking roll.

I carried as much as I could while Henry carried the canoe and then he would have to make another trip back for the rest of our gear. It felt like my back was breaking under the weight of my backpack(s)!! And everything I had strapped to them. I had to stop twice in one mile to take a break and drink some water and it didn’t help that the first half of the portage was steep and uphill.

Back at the river after the falls I positioned the canoe and organized all of our gear while Henry went back and made another trip for our remaining gear. After everything was organized I sat in the sand, exhausted and happy for a break.

I turned on my speaker and played Sierra Ferrell and Rising Appalachia songs and serenaded the 30 some gnats circling my face outside of my bug net. The sun was setting and it was cooling off and I felt tired and content and in the moment.

When Henry returned we high fived, kissed, tossed our remaining gear in the canoe and hopped in, trying to race against the remaining daylight. The remaining 0.7 miles passed quickly and we pulled up to our sandy beach. A deer grazed across the river as we tied up the boat and unloaded for the final time today.

We are both completely exhausted but proud and in good spirits. Had refried bean burritos with cheese, avocado, and corn chips for dinner. Set up the tent in the shelter because it’s going to rain tonight. What a day.